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Spring 2005 Newsletter
Beautiful sunny days with spring flowers, and newly born animals make Bergli quite special just now. The yellow flowers and feathery leaves seem to shine out on the Wattle trees, as we walk through the Macrocarpa forest. Ewe Salotte has two black lambs (one with a tail tip of white) and Flo, last year’s lamb, is now a proud Mum of one. Ewe Princess is yet to thrill us with her twins, and Cows Francie and Lillian are in the paddock beside the house, awaiting their calves any day now.
Max and Rowena are having a relaxing time, after three weeks holiday in Tonga.
A first time for Rowena, but Max had sailed there in Sunshine, his yacht, in the 70’s.
The Kingdom of Tonga
After arriving at the capital of Nuku’a’lofa we went on a three-hour ferry ride to the little island of Eua, for 5 days. We spent a lovely day walking through the only native protected forest in Tonga, and visiting an incredible banyan tree in a sinkhole there. The sound of the mallets for tapa making echoed through the villages we walked through. But the most unforgettable experience was the singing at church on Sunday.
The joy, the harmony, it was incredible. It stands out in the memory even after going to the big church, which the King attended in the capital.

The story of the octopus, and the rat shaped lure.

The ferry was too big for the jetties on some islands, so the fishing boats all came out. The petrol drums were thrown over and left to drift ashore!
The Hideaway resort kw@kalianet.to Ph 676-11-358 with Taki and his family looked after us well, and we also took to visiting the newly set up Deep Resort just next door, as they had a lovely beach and good food. We became friends with Ana the owner operator, and later stayed at their backpacker Moana Beach House House Ph 676-27406 moanas@kalianet.to when we returned to Nuku’a’lofa on the mainland of Tongatapu at the end of our travels. Our main destination was Ha’apai and we went by ferry…an interesting 8-hour trip. Rowena contacted the local school and offered to do a shadow puppet workshop for them. They were very thrilled and with two classes we did “Old McDonald had farm” with all the animals etc. and a traditional story of why they use bait in the shape of a rat, to catch octopus. Facilities were limited, so we set up a sheet for the screen, outside, using sunlight; my sleeping bag concealed the puppeteers and it was a great success.
Max wanted to really get away from civilization, so we went by boat from the main island of Lifuka to ‘Uoleva and stayed at the Captain Cook resort, in fales (traditional huts) where there was no electricity or running water. Soni and Maria of Captain Cook Resort Ph 676-60014 looked after us well. We saw whales from our bed, and had a glorious view of white beach, the sea, and sunsets. We swam, snorkelled, kayaked and walked, in between meals, chats, reading and naps. It was glorious. Then back by ferry again to Nuku’a’lofa where Rowena did another volunteer workshop for the Montessori Kindergarten. They had a birthday party too, so it was a treat for her to join in.
The blowholes and Stonehenge-like monuments were fascinating, as were the local bus trips and hitchhiking to get there, through banana, taro and coconut plantations.
During our last days the strike gained momentum, and the first of the protest marches started. The speeches at the rally were televised every day and we talked with many locals about the problems. When we hitchhiked we also had the chance to speak with police and government workers and hear both sides of the story.
Tonga is very special and the history of being the only Pacific Island not a colony makes it an authentic experience. But our hearts went out to the ordinary people struggling just to have an ordinary living. They are desperately trying to force a change and return to the generous and relaxed lifestyle they once had.
The sink hole with a banyan tree growing out of it.

 

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